Building of walls and partitions

WALLING
WALLING BARS



WALLING

  • Before walling we need to prepare planed straight rod, on which one we need to make marks every 250 mm for a control of lenght and hight of module. The length of the rod will be the same as the hight of the future built wall.

  • We will make a check of flatness and foundation for walling. In case of unevenness in hight of base or ceiling contruction is necessary to adjust by a mortar v.
  • It is necessary to test if there is requested on the prepared basis for walling a horizontal isolation against dampness. Eventual belts for isolation should be placed under future built wall in the width of 150 mm wider than is the width of the wall (by the belted walling).
  • For faster application of the mortar on bed joints we can prepare a pattern (a hod) for ex. from straight planed rods, which has the same width as the thickness of the wall and lenght cca 1m.
  • The walling should be made by temperature from +5 to +30 °C. By temperature lower than -5 °C waling is forbidden. Walling subjects can not be frozen, dusty, greasy not dirty in any way.
  • First of all we place the brick blocks on mortared ends (edges) of the future wall. We put it in order horizontally and vertically with the surface, we need to make sure for the correct orientation of the system of slot and feather in the length of the wall. For building of edges and brickworks we use additional bricks (half bricks, angle bricks, side bricks), that there would be the perfect structure of the brickwork provided and that there would be achieved the best heating pressure in these sensitive areas of the solid circuit of brickwork.
  • We need to connect the brick blocks at the ends of the wall with the outside of the brickwork with a straight twine. We apply the mortar on the space in between the brick blocks and the ends of the walls. Mortar lodge should be the same width as the thickness of the wall withoutan interruption..
  • We start to put down the brick blocks alongside the straight twine (line) on the top of freshly spreaded mortar next to each other in the way that they would touch each other. Slot and feather on sides of the brick blocks serve us as a small pattern or guidance.
  • The placement of builded brick blocks we compare with use of a plastic club hammer according to the building level and prepared rod. Mortar leaking out of the lodge joint we can correct with the trowel that it would not exceed the sides of the brick blocks.
  • With bricks of SUPE®THERM we don’t mortar the vertical joints, because they are replaced by system of slot and feather.
  • While building we can not forget the right consistency of mortar that it would not leak inside the wholes and spares in the bottom course (layer). Before application of mortar on other course of brickwork we need to damp the top part of brick blocks of the last built course.
  • Following course we build in a way that the coverage of vertical joints is in minimum 95 mm.
  • When we are connecting the solid supporting brickwork made from bricks SUPE®THERM 30 P+D, 24 P+D, 19 P+D, 17,5 P+D, AKU 30 P+D and AKU 24 P+D on the solid circuit brickwork we mortar bricks from the side and the mortared side we add to the circuit wall.In every second builded course we need to conncet the supportive brickworks with the solid circuit brickworks.
  • For the structure of the brickworks from brick blocks SUPE®THERM in not narrow angles or in other cases,when the length module of brickworks does not multiply to 250 mm then it is necessary to cut the brick blocks. Cutting can be performed on table ounded stone saw or by hand electric chain saw or with contra rotating pressure for ex. hand electric chain saw DW 393 producer DEWALT, www.devalt.cz.
  • While walling we still need to control the right position and strength of the building twine (line). We check the vertical position of the brickworks by using of the level or the plumb line and the height of courses of brickworks with prepared rod.
  • If while walling is not possible to build a wall in multiply of module measurements of bricks, it is necessary to correct the brick shape by cutting it.





WALLING OF RAILS

  • Before beginning of the building of the rail we need to check the flatness of the surface and we need to check if there should not be a vertical isolation against dampness. Eventual isolation belts must be wider by o 300 mm than the future rail (150 mm on each side of the rail).
  • The height of the different courses of the rail brickworks we solve it in compliance with courses of the solid circuit or supportive brickworks in between them we want to build the rail.
  • Other restrictions for building the rails are the same as restritions and steps for building the walls.
  • When connecting the rail made from bricks SUPE®THERM 14 P+D, 11,5 P+D and 6,5 P+D on supportive or circuit wall we continue thaqt we mortar the brick on the side and stick it to the supportive or regular wall.Next it is necessary, on every second course, in lodge joint make the abutment in place of connection of the rail on the wall by flat wall clamp. for example. from fy Dis Tech Ltd. (www.distech.cz) or Fischer (www.fischerwerke.cz). We bend the wall clamp to the right angle and squeeze into the mortar of the lodge joint of the rail, vertical part of the wall clamp we screw on with help of the common screw to the conncecting wall. Gripping of the steal wall clamp we can also make in diffent way as while building it we can place the wall clamps inside the lodge joints in parts where is going to be the future rails connection. .
  • When placing a regular door in jambs in wals we make steps tht we straighten the jambs with assistance of the water level and we fix the doorstops with not narrow bars. We stabilize the jambs with using the mortar or with the wall mounting foam.
  • Railing brickwork is connected to the structur of the vault.
  • The gaps in between the ceiling and the last course of the reail are filled in by the mortar again.If the rail is directly under the ceiling which has the expansion larger than 3,5 m we need to fill the gap by pressured material, as the reason of possible sagging of the ceiling.
  • Installed gaps and slots in the brickworks,we recommend to implement by slot milling, so there is no risk of static damage of the work..